Like Balenciaga, Madeliene Vionnet closed her fashion house & her last collection was shown in 1939.
Decades later, her label was reborn into the modern world and began producing small scale products far from the catwalk. It wasn’t until 2006 when the label finally returned to the runways.
For the first few years, many changes happened with the brand, designers collaborating and leaving the company. They stepped out to produce Demi couture collections (which I had never heard of until this research!), they weren’t expensive enough collections to appear haute couture & therefore become somewhere between the two main sectors.
In 2009 Matteo Marzotto (an Italian textiles giant) acquired the company and pushed it forward with a creative team of designers. Earning popularity and being worn by some of the most famous people in the world, for example; Madonna.
In 2012 Kazakstan born Goga Ashkenazi replaced Marzotto. She seems to have a very sentimental approach about the Vionnet brand and in celebration of the 100th year anniversary of the label, she created a demi couture collection to honour the signature styles & history of the fashion house.
From looking through the collections, it is clear that there have been different figures controlling the designs of the brand. The more beautiful collections I believe have been in the more recent years. There is clear evidence that Ashkenazi wants to represent & respect what Madeliene Vionnet valued. The most recent collection has a mixed feel, there are many ancient feels like Persian influence with gold tones & soft materials.
It is important to have a relationship with the collections that you’re making (which could be applied throughout art & design). Fashion is personal & I’ve realised that as these designers have a relationship with their fashion houses, we have a relationship with our clothes. Fashion is a way of us as people expressing our inner (or outer) selves, but that is a very personal thing and has made me think about the types of relationships we have.
Tomorrow I am going to the V&A Wedding dress exhibition & see if this has any influence on my relationships idea for my research.